Before You Make an Offer: Part 2
What to Look for on the Exterior During a
Home Showing.
The exterior of a Portland home tells you more about its maintenance history than almost anything you will see inside. Water management, siding condition, foundation drainage, most of the expensive findings that surface during inspections have visible warning signs on the outside. Here is how to read them before you make an offer.
Same format as Part 1. Walk the showing, use this as your framework for what to look at, and write down anything that falls into the “look more carefully” or “ask your inspector” categories. At the end is your inspector question list, bring the specific items you noticed from this home.
The exterior is the longest section in this series because Portland’s climate makes water management the dominant concern of almost every home inspection here. A dry summer showing can hide a lot. Most of what matters on the exterior is about moisture, where it goes, where it gets in, and what it has done so far.
Portland averages about 36 inches of rain a year, most of it concentrated from October through March. Much of the metro area sits on silt and clay soils that drain slowly, stay saturated for extended periods, and exert pressure against foundation walls when wet. Fiber cement siding, common on homes built since the mid-1990s, is highly dependent on correct installation. Masonry veneer is common on 2000s and 2010s homes and has its own specific drainage requirements.
What this means for a buyer doing a showing: water management findings on a Portland exterior carry more consequence than they would in a drier climate. A poorly sealed siding transition, a garden bed built up against the foundation, or a downspout that drains four inches from the wall can contribute to crawlspace moisture, foundation cracking, and siding deterioration through a wet season that lasts nearly half the year.
Start Here: Before you go inside, walk the full perimeter of the home, all four sides. Most buyers do the front and maybe one side. The back and the less-visible sides are where deferred maintenance accumulates. Budget ten minutes. Bring your phone to photograph anything worth noting.
Area 01
Siding, Condition, Contact, and Clearance
What to do
Walk each elevation and look at the siding from a few feet away, then get close to a couple of areas, particularly the bottom course near grade and any areas where siding meets a different material. Look at where the siding ends at the bottom, at corners, and at any transition between siding and stone or brick veneer.
Much of Portland’s housing stock built since the mid-1990s has fiber cement siding, Hardie board or a similar product. It is durable when installed correctly. What causes it to fail is almost always an installation or maintenance issue that is visible from outside if you know what to look for.
- Siding bottom course buried in or contacting soil, mulch, or bark dust. Fiber cement manufacturers require a minimum of 6 inches of clearance between the bottom of the siding and soft ground surfaces. When siding sits in mulch or soil, it wicks moisture continuously. Look for siding that disappears into a garden bed or sits flush with grade. Look more carefully
- Paint that is significantly more faded, chalky, or peeling on one elevation than the others. Some fade is normal. Peeling paint, paint that is lifting or flaking, is more significant. It can indicate moisture pushing through the substrate from behind, not just UV exposure from the front. The south and west elevations get the most sun; the north and east get the most moisture. Look more carefully
- Visible cracks radiating from fastener locations on fiber cement siding. Face-nailed fiber cement cracks at the nail heads as it expands and contracts. If you see small cracks running outward from nail or fastener points, those are moisture entry points and a sign of incorrect installation. Ask your inspector
- Wood trim at window bases or horizontal trim boards that looks soft, dark, or has paint failure at the bottom edge. Run a fingernail across any suspect trim. Soft wood means rot. Trim rot at window bases and horizontal surfaces is common in Portland’s climate and often hides more damage behind it than is visible on the surface. Ask your inspector
- Minor caulk cracking at window and door perimeters. Caulk ages and cracks, this is routine maintenance. Note whether it appears recently maintained or completely neglected across the whole home. Consistent caulk failure on every window suggests the home has had little exterior maintenance attention. Worth noting
Deep dive: Fiber Cement Siding Installation Mistakes
The 7 most common defects, what they cost, and what to ask your inspector
Area 02
Masonry Veneer, Stone, Brick, and What Hides Behind It
What to do
If the home has adhered stone or brick veneer, on columns, on a lower band of the wall, or as an accent, look at where it meets the roofline above and the grade below. Look for any visible gap between the veneer and the roof shingles. Look at the base of the veneer where it meets the ground or concrete.
Adhered manufactured stone and brick veneer became common on Portland-area homes in the 2000s and 2010s. It looks like solid masonry but is a thin product bonded to the wall sheathing. When it is installed without the required drainage components, moisture that enters behind it has nowhere to go, and the sheathing and framing behind it deteriorates silently.
- Stone or brick veneer installed directly against roof shingles with no visible gap. There should be a clearance gap where veneer meets a roofline. When they are in contact, moisture from the roof surface wicks into the veneer and eventually into the wall. If you see veneer touching the shingles, note it. Ask your inspector
- Veneer that runs to grade or into soil with no visible weep screed at the base. A corrosion-resistant weep screed at the base of adhered veneer allows moisture trapped behind it to drain out. Without it, the wall assembly stays wet. This is a detail that is invisible once the veneer is installed, your inspector knows what to look for. Ask your inspector
- Efflorescence, white mineral deposits, visible on the face of the stone or brick. White chalky streaking or crusting on masonry veneer indicates water has moved through it and left mineral deposits on the surface as it evaporated. The water had to come from somewhere. Look more carefully
- Veneer that is visibly separating from the wall, bulging, or has sections that have already fallen. Delamination indicates the bond between the veneer and substrate has failed, typically from sustained moisture exposure. Even one small section that has separated is worth noting. Look more carefully
Deep dive: Masonry Veneer and Weep Screeds
Why missing drainage components on stone veneer cause concealed wall damage
Area 03
Grading and Drainage, Where Does the Water Go?
What to do
Walk each side of the home and look at which way the soil slopes next to the foundation. It should slope away from the house. Also look at where the downspouts end, do they direct water away from the foundation, or do they terminate right at the wall?
This is the single most consequential thing to evaluate on a Portland exterior. A showing in July during dry weather looks completely fine. The same home in November, with the downspouts dumping water four inches from the foundation and the garden beds pitched inward, is directing enormous amounts of water against the structure every week for six months. The effects accumulate over years. What you see in the crawlspace after the fact is the downstream evidence of what was happening outside.
- Soil or landscaping that appears to slope toward the foundation rather than away from it. Does the ground adjacent to the foundation look higher than the ground a few feet out? Or does it appear level with no slope at all? Either condition means surface water moves toward the foundation rather than away. Look especially at garden beds built against the foundation, years of adding mulch can silently reverse the drainage slope. Look more carefully
- Downspouts that terminate at the foundation wall or within two feet of it. Even a home with good roof drainage can funnel a large volume of water right next to the foundation if the downspouts are short. A downspout that discharges into a splash block that itself is pitched toward the house is doing the same thing. Look more carefully
- Staining, mineral deposits, or dark discoloration at the base of the siding or foundation wall on any side. White efflorescence or dark water staining at the bottom of the siding or at the foundation-wall junction is evidence that water is reaching and accumulating there regularly. This is the exterior indicator of what is likely visible inside the crawlspace as well. Look more carefully
- A patio, driveway, or walkway that slopes toward the house. Hardscape that pitches inward funnels water against the wall. This is common on older patios that have settled unevenly. Note which direction any hardscape adjacent to the foundation drains. Worth noting
- Any side of the home where grading, drainage, and downspout issues all appear together. Multiple drainage concerns concentrated on one elevation, or on all four, compound each other. This is the combination most likely to be producing crawlspace moisture. Ask your inspector to check the crawlspace specifically in the areas corresponding to the exterior drainage concerns you observed. Ask your inspector
Deep dive: Negative Grading in Portland
Why Portland’s clay soils make grading problems more damaging here, and what fixing it costs
Area 04
Gutters and Downspouts
What to do
Step back and look at the gutter line from a distance. Does it run level, or does it sag in the middle of runs? Look at the number and placement of downspouts. Then follow each downspout to where it terminates and note what is there.
- Gutters that visibly sag at the middle of runs. Gutters should slope gently toward the downspout, about 1/4 inch per 10 feet. Gutters that sag pond water, overflow during heavy rain, and deposit that water in a concentrated location right below the sag, often right at the wall. Look more carefully
- Staining on the siding directly below a gutter section. Vertical staining or dark streaking on siding below a specific section of gutter indicates that gutter is overflowing or leaking at that location, depositing water directly down the wall face rather than channeling it away. Look more carefully
- Visible debris or plant growth in gutters. Portland’s tree canopy means gutters fill up quickly. This is maintenance, not a structural concern, but gutters that have not been cleaned in years tend to have other deferred maintenance alongside them. Worth noting
- Roof sections that appear to lack gutters entirely. Not every roof edge requires a gutter, but any edge that drains toward the foundation, a walkway, or an entry should have one. Ask your inspector which areas are adequately drained and which are not. Ask your inspector
- Downspouts connected to an underground drain that disappears into the ground. Some homes have downspouts connected to underground drainage pipes that lead to the street, a dry well, or a French drain. These are good in theory, but if the underground pipe is cracked, clogged, or tied into the sewer (which Portland restricts in many areas), the water may be backing up. Ask your inspector what they can determine about the underground drainage system. Ask your inspector
Area 05
The Foundation, What Is Visible at Grade
What to do
Walk each side of the home and look at the exposed foundation wall above grade. This may be concrete or masonry. Note any cracks, staining, or areas where the foundation appears to have been patched. Note whether the foundation is visible at all, if landscaping has fully buried it, that is its own concern.
You will not see everything that matters in a foundation from a showing. Most of the meaningful evaluation happens from inside the crawlspace, where the interior face of the foundation wall is accessible. But the exterior face tells you things the interior cannot, particularly about grading, drainage impact, and any significant movement.
- Fine vertical cracks, hairline width. Very common. Normal in almost any concrete foundation, the result of curing shrinkage and minor settlement over time. These are typically not structurally significant. Note them but do not overweight them. Worth noting
- Cracks that are wider at the top than the bottom, or that run diagonally. These crack patterns are more significant than simple vertical shrinkage cracks. Diagonal cracking in a foundation can indicate differential settlement, one part of the foundation moving more than another. Note the location and orientation and ask your inspector specifically. Ask your inspector
- White mineral deposits or staining on the foundation face. Efflorescence on the exterior foundation face means water is moving through the concrete from the outside. This is consistent with negative grading or high moisture against the foundation. Ask your inspector to check the interior crawlspace face in the same locations for active seepage. Ask your inspector
- Foundation that is not visible at all, buried entirely in soil or landscaping. When the foundation is fully buried, you cannot evaluate it from the exterior, and the grading is almost certainly against the structure. Make a note of which sides have no visible foundation exposure. Look more carefully
- Any area where the foundation has been patched, filled, or repaired. Patched cracks are not necessarily a problem, but they indicate someone knew about a crack. Ask your inspector to note the repair and its visible condition. Ask the seller’s agent for any disclosure documentation about foundation work. Ask your inspector
Area 06
Windows, Doors, and Flashing
What to do
Look at a few windows on each elevation, not every single one, but a representative sample. Look at the sill below each window, the caulking around the frame, and any metal flashing above windows where siding transitions to window trim. Operate any exterior doors you have access to.
- Peeling paint or soft, dark wood at window sills. Window sills are horizontal surfaces that hold water. Paint failure at the sill leads to wood rot underneath. On a showing, look at the bottom edge of window sill trim on a few windows across different elevations. Consistent sill rot means the home has had paint and maintenance neglect for some time. Look more carefully
- Caulk cracking or gaps at window perimeters. Some caulk cracking is normal maintenance. Completely absent or heavily failed caulking on windows across the home indicates sustained maintenance neglect and potential moisture intrusion at every window opening. Worth noting
- Missing or improperly installed metal flashing above windows where siding transitions to window trim. At the horizontal transition where siding meets the wood trim above a window, there should be a metal drip cap or Z-flashing directing water away from the trim. If you see a caulked horizontal joint with no metal visible, ask your inspector about the flashing detail at those windows. Ask your inspector
- Fogged or cloudy window glass. Cloudy or foggy appearance between panes of a double-pane window means the insulating seal has failed. This is a cosmetic and energy issue more than a structural one, but failed seals across many windows indicate older windows approaching replacement age. Look more carefully
- Exterior doors that stick, drag, or do not close squarely in their frames. A door that binds at the top corner or does not close without lifting can indicate foundation settlement or framing movement that has racked the door frame out of square. Note which door and where it binds. Look more carefully
Area 07
The Quick Checks, Things Most Buyers Never Look At
What to do
This is a final walk-around sweep for items that do not fit neatly into the other categories. Most buyers walk past these entirely. Take two minutes and look for each one before you go inside.
- A vent pipe stub, fill cap, or buried tank indicator near the foundation or in the yard. Portland has a significant concentration of homes with former underground oil tanks, used for heating oil before natural gas became dominant. Fill pipes, vent pipes, and soil depressions near the foundation or in older utility areas can indicate a tank that was decommissioned or was never disclosed. This is worth asking about. See our underground oil tank guide. Ask your inspector
- Damaged or missing soffit vent screens. Look up at the soffit (the underside of the roof overhang). Vent screens with torn mesh or open gaps allow birds and rodents direct access to the attic. You may be able to see this from the ground on lower eave areas. Look more carefully
- Fences and gates that are significantly aged, leaning, or have posts that appear to be rotting at ground level. Fence replacement is a budget item, not a structural concern. But it is the kind of deferred maintenance that often indicates a pattern across the property. Note the overall condition as context for how the home has been maintained generally. Worth noting
- Retaining walls that are leaning, have gaps in mortar, or show significant displacement. Retaining walls under hydraulic pressure from saturated Portland clay soils can fail progressively. A leaning retaining wall adjacent to the foundation is worth asking your inspector and possibly a structural engineer about. Look more carefully
- Any addition, detached structure, or exterior modification that looks like it may have been built without permits. Ask your agent to request permit history for the property. Unpermitted additions affect insurability and resale, and can have concealed safety issues. Your inspector will note any visible signs of unpermitted work, but the permit record is the definitive source. Ask your inspector
A Note on Timing: If you are viewing a home in summer, July, August, early September, keep in mind that dry weather conceals moisture problems. A garden bed pitched toward the foundation looks fine in August. In January it is funneling weeks of continuous rain against the structure. Use what you observe in summer as a starting point, and make sure your inspector’s crawlspace and drainage evaluation is thorough regardless of what the weather looks like on inspection day.
Questions to Ask Your Inspector
Check off the items that apply to what you observed at this home. Bring this list to your inspection, specific questions get more useful answers than general ones.
Inspector Checklist
Siding & Trim
0 of 5 items verified
- The siding appears to contact soil or mulch on the [north/south/east/west] side, can you check the clearance and probe the bottom edge for moisture?
- There is paint peeling on the [side] elevation, can you check whether moisture is pushing from behind?
- I saw what looked like cracks at fastener locations on the siding at [location], can you evaluate whether that is face-nailed?
- The window sill trim at [location] looked soft, can you probe that trim for rot and note any signs of moisture behind it?
- The caulking on most windows looked heavily failed, can you document the overall condition of the exterior sealants?
Inspector Checklist
Masonry Veneer
0 of 3 items verified
- The stone/brick veneer on the [columns / lower wall] appears to contact the roof shingles, can you evaluate the clearance and flashing detail?
- Can you check whether there is a weep screed at the base of the masonry veneer on the [column / wall section]?
- There was efflorescence on the face of the veneer, can you check the interior wall in that location for moisture?
Inspector Checklist
Grading & Drainage
0 of 4 items verified
- The grade appeared to slope toward the foundation on the [side], can you check the slope and evaluate whether the crawlspace shows moisture consistent with that drainage problem?
- The downspouts terminate very close to the foundation, can you note whether this is contributing to crawlspace moisture?
- There was staining at the foundation base on the [side], can you probe that area for active moisture?
- One or more downspouts connect to an underground drain, can you note where it visibly terminates and whether it appears to drain?
Inspector Checklist
Gutters
0 of 2 items verified
- The gutter on the [side] appeared to sag, can you check whether it is draining properly and whether it is causing wall staining?
- There was siding staining below the gutter on the [side], can you identify whether that is an overflow or leak issue?
Inspector Checklist
Foundation
0 of 3 items verified
- There is a [diagonal / wide / stained] crack on the exterior foundation at [location], can you evaluate it from the crawlspace as well?
- The foundation appears to have been patched at [location], can you note the repair and its visible condition?
- The foundation is buried on the [side], can you check from inside the crawlspace whether there is active moisture intrusion on that side?
Inspector Checklist
Windows & Other
0 of 5 items verified
- Several windows had fogged glass, can you note how many and document them in the report?
- The [front/back] door appeared to bind in the frame, can you check whether that indicates foundation or framing movement?
- I noticed what may be a tank vent or fill pipe near [location], can you look at that and say whether a tank sweep is worth considering?
- The soffit vent screens on the [side] looked damaged, can you check attic access points for pest entry?
- There is a retaining wall near the foundation on the [side], can you evaluate its condition and whether it poses a drainage or structural concern?
Common Questions
Exterior Showing FAQ
Walk the full perimeter and evaluate seven areas: siding condition and clearance to grade, masonry veneer drainage details if present, grading and drainage around the foundation, gutters and downspouts, the visible foundation above grade, windows and exterior doors, and a final sweep for miscellaneous items. Portland’s wet climate makes grading, drainage, and moisture management the most consequential exterior concerns, any drainage problems you observe during a summer showing can cause damage through a wet winter season.
Walk the perimeter and look at which direction the soil slopes adjacent to the foundation, it should slope away from the house on all sides. If soil, mulch, or landscaping appears higher against the foundation than it is a few feet out, or if it is clearly pitched toward the wall, that is negative grading. Also follow each downspout to where it terminates, downspouts that discharge within two feet of the foundation concentrate a large volume of water in exactly the wrong place.
Look for siding that contacts or is buried in soil or mulch at the bottom, paint that is peeling rather than just fading on one elevation, trim that looks soft or dark at the bottom edge of windows and horizontal surfaces, cracks in fiber cement siding near fastener locations, and any masonry veneer that appears to contact the roof shingles or grade without a visible gap. Portland’s wet climate makes moisture intrusion through siding defects more damaging here than in drier regions.
Fading from UV exposure is normal and cosmetic. Peeling paint, paint that is lifting, flaking, or blistering, is more significant because it can indicate moisture pushing through the substrate from behind rather than just weathering on the surface. When only one elevation is significantly worse than the others, it usually points to that side having more moisture exposure or a drainage issue. Both are worth noting for the home inspector.
Check that gutters appear level or slightly pitched toward the downspouts rather than sagging, that there is no siding staining directly below a gutter section indicating overflow, and that downspouts extend away from the foundation rather than terminating right next to it. In Portland’s wet climate, gutters that overflow or discharge adjacent to the foundation are among the most common contributors to crawlspace moisture and foundation drainage problems.
Not all foundation cracks are serious. Fine vertical cracks are common from normal concrete curing and minor settlement. Cracks that run diagonally, that are wider at one end than the other, or that show water staining are worth noting and asking your inspector about specifically. On a showing, note the location and orientation of any cracks you see. Your inspector evaluates the interior face of the foundation from the crawlspace as well, which often tells more than the exterior face alone.
